SCOTLAND | EDINBURGH AND THE ISLE OF LEWIS & HARRIS
Kerrin Burke Lahr
I visited Scotland for the first time in October 2018. At the time I thought Scotland would be a one and done. Cross it off the list of places I’d like to go and move on to the next. I did not anticipate how much I would fall in love with this country and its moody weather. As a result, I did not hesitate to join Muench Workshops once again in Scotland. This time we spent a day in Edinburgh before taking a small prop plane to the Isle of Lewis and Harris in the Outer Hebrides.
EDINBURGH is the capitol of Scotland. It’s Old Town and New Town are together a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It should be noted that New Town was built between 1767 - 1850 whereas the Old Town’s origins can be traced back to the seventh century AD (which would be anywhere from 601 - 700 AD). This city has a lot of charm and you could spend a week or more exploring all it has to offer.
The city of Edinburgh from Calton Hill (above). Below (from l-r) - church towers, Ross Fountain with Edinburgh Castle as a backdrop, late day shadows along the Royal Mile and Barrie’s Close (a “close” is an alley or passageway from one street to another). Click on each to view the entire image at full resolution.
ISLE OF LEWIS & HARRIS is the largest island in Scotland and the third largest in the British Isles (Great Britain is the largest followed by Ireland). It covers an area of 841 square miles and has a population of a little over twenty thousand. The northern two-thirds is called Lewis and the southern third Harris. Fun fact: for generations this island has produced a special fabric known as Harris Tweed which is still woven, at the home of the weaver, using traditional methods.
Our home on the island was EISHKEN ESTATE, an 18th century estate situated on 43,000 acres of land. Staying here allowed us a glimpse into a bygone era. Oh, and the food!? One word: amazing! The cook deserves a Michelin Star (or Stars). The “food bar” was raised at Eishken Estate. Now that I’m back home I’ve concluded my culinary skills are lacking. Here is a sampling of some of the courses [top row (from l-r) - crackling pork, steak, lamb and bottom row (l-r) - strawberry cheesecake, some sort of tort, and the classic cheese platter].
CALLANISH STANDING STONES are thought to have been erected 5,000 years ago predating Stonehenge.
ABANDONED HOUSES are many in the Outer Hebrides and have been left to stand derelict. It is unknown why each has been abandoned but they stand in varying states of decay. Some seem like the owners have only stepped away, some have collapsed roofs and others provide shelter for herds of sheep and other animals.
When you’re on an island there’s a good chance, you will see some WATER. The Isle of Lewis & Harris is the place to go if you want to photograph (or even just see) waterfalls, lochs (lakes), waves breaking on beaches, cliffs and/or sea stacks. Click on each to view the entire image at full resolution. (row by row & l-r: Mangersta Sea Stacks, waterfall near Uig, Stac a’Phris Arch, and the final three were taken at Traigh Beag.
The SALT FLATS provided endless composition possibilities. I just loved this location! I can’t decide if I prefer black+white or the color version.
The houses in GEARRANNAN BLACKHOUSE VILLAGE, on Lewis, are made of thick stone-lined walls that are partially dug into the ground. The roofs are thatched with cereal straw over turf. The houses were occupied until 1970. 1989 marked the start of extensive renovations which were completed in 2001. They are now available as vacation rentals.
A trip to Scotland is not complete without a SHEEP, HIGHLAND COW or a RED STAG sighting. The Highland Cow (or as I prefer - Hielan Coo [Scots]) are a Scottish breed with traits that include long horns and long wavy wooly coats that can be black, brown, yellow, white, gray, or tan. The Heilan Coo are raised primarily for their meat. They originated in the Highlands and Outer Hebrides islands of Scotland and were first referred to in the 6th century AD. The Red stag is the most majestic deer I have ever seen! Our Scottish guide, Harry, myself and another participant, got up early one morning in hopes of photographing otters in one of the estate’s lochs. Unfortunately, the otters were MIA, but I did spot a Red Stag up on top of a hill. He was quite the poser!
Scotland holds a wee bit of my heart. It was hard to say goodbye but I’m heading back in May (to other parts of the country) with my 87-year-old mother. Until then - Slàinte Mhath (pronounced Slanj-a-va) or cheers!